Portugal is Preserving its Old Buildings... and its Past.

There are restoration efforts everywhere.

Portugal- A City Full of Scaffolds

Portugal is protecting its old architecture to protect it from demolition and replacement with modern structures. In some cases, it's a race against time. The effects of the weather, time, and a rough history have taken their toll. Sadly, we've seen many old buildings that are damaged beyond repair. But there are many more that have been spared and many are getting the care and attention that they need.

It captures the imagination to think about the history of these buildings- who lived in the spaces and why they were abandoned? Since the turn of the century when many of these buildings were built, turbulent times breezed through Portugal. If these old walls could speak they would say to me, “Breezed through?! My dear one, we endured outright storms!” As I contemplate Setúbal’s past, I have flashbacks of me sitting next to my aunt in Hawaii who shared stories about my great-grandfather and the old house he built in the mountains near Hiroshima. That would have been the approximate time that these old Setúbal structures were built too. That gives me some perspective.

It’s ironic that current rental and inheritance laws have also contributed to abandoned buildings that are left to decay. In the former case, rent freezes leave less capital for upkeep, and the latter case has led to stalemates on the property’s future. The end results in both cases are that the buildings are left to deteriorate with limited or no upkeep.

Portugal- A Brief History and Recovery from the Pandemic

(If you want to skip the history, scroll ahead to “Restoration restores more than buildings”)

Since the turn of the century, there have been revolutions, world wars, and struggles to establish democracy in Portugal. Radical shifts in government, censorship, and coups have all fractured the country’s past, but the people’s resolve for a stable and just government remained strong. Fascism and Communism factions fought for position throughout the 30s and 40s. A momentus New Constitution was approved in 1976. This constitution favored a parliamentary democratic system.

Today Portugal is leading the way in championing human rights. For example, Portugal waved the need for visas for Ukrainian refugees who fled their country. In an article published in 2021, Ceoworld Maganize compared attributes of gender equality, representation in government, feeling safe, income equality, and education, Portugal ranked number 18. That’s a better score than Singapore, Belgium, and the United States, to name a few.  Also, marriage equality has been instituted here since 2010.

Although the fragile times of the 1970s echo today’s tangle with polarized partisan politics, the Portuguese seem to have a better handle on issues facing many nations today in 2022. There seems to be more cooperation between Portugal’s political parties on behalf of its people. One example of that is the unified efforts to protect the population from the pandemic. According to the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD), Portugal had the highest vaccination rate within its organization of 38 countries. We followed these statistics closely as our date to move here approached. In a recently updated article, The New York Times reports Portugal as having 95% of its population vaccinated with a full vaccination rate of 86%. That compares to the US rates of 80% and 68% respectively. According to the OECD report, the Portuguese economy is recovering fast.” Because of its early and strict pandemic measures, and a resulting decline in Covid infections, Portugal was able to reopen its doors for European tourism as early as May 17, 2021. According to Reuters, tourist numbers were higher this past July than before the pandemic.

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A local building after restoration- A Padaria Portuguesa

Restoration restores more than buildings

From my perspective, preserving historic buildings has a more impactful role than public beautification alone. Many of the young adults that I have spoken to have seen improvements in their lifetime and therefore have a more positive feeling about the future of the city. They’ve shared with me that many of the abandoned buildings have been restored and more shops and apartments have reopened within the last 10 years. Still, current development and restoration efforts have not been able to meet today’s housing demands. The Portuguese and a growing ex-pat community are finding it more difficult to find housing in the inner cities. That is certainly true in Setúbal.

From a recent newcomer’s perspective, the people here are happy, and public services are robust. Most impressively, our travel within the country has revealed an astonishing blend of a traditional way of life and the new. Unfortunately, we all know that saving the “old ways” is an ongoing struggle globally. On our day trips to smaller towns outside Setúbal, we’re happy to find many areas that appear to be untouched by time.

Portugal started a program to encourage renovation. The idea is to provide housing and also strengthen the infrastructure for tourism. In both cases, many beautiful buildings will continue to display their unique charm. When they’re standing side-by-side the effect is even more breathtaking. It adds to the illusion, making you feel you’ve been transported back in time.

If you joined me on a walk through town right now, we’d be walking along cobbled streets and admiring all the old buildings, parks, and fountains together. We’ve already seen some overgrown lots with crumbled old walls and collapsed rooftops. Beyond that, we would see scaffolds here and there as old walls are cleaned and limestone slabs replaced. Sometimes we can see the sky through broken windows. Inside, through collapsed doors, we see workers on ladders and hear the sound of hammers, chisels, and power saws. Next door we’ll see an example of what the building will look like once it’s restored.

I’ll lead you into the heart of the old town where we’ll pass by handsome rows of old shops with storefronts wonderfully restored. We’ll sit at a table sharing a drink in front of a cafe. We’ll feel satisfied as we admire the newly painted walls of Salão de Cha.